Jordan Adventure - Chapter 3

Back into our respective vehicles we left the paved road and made our way across the shifting sands of the desert’s edge. A path was somewhat discernible in the sand, even so, Khalav took the lead to manoeuver wherever he wished to go. We drove and drove deeper into the desert until in the distance a village.... no, a hamlet appeared. A Bedouin encampment. Khalav wove his and our way through houses and tents, coming to rest on the east side of his family home in the shade.

I saw three persons as we approached. Two men and a smaller boy. As I clamoured out of the Landrover family members poured from inside the large Bedouin tent attached to the south end of the cement block house. I lost count at twenty. (I later learned that Khalav was one of eleven brothers and sisters.) I met every man and male child present as we prepared to embark in yet another Toyota, this one being more fit for fun in the desert, albeit, older and more modified than the first. I use the term “modified” advisedly as my seat rocked back with each acceleration.

Any fears I had about this young boy taking me and my driver Radwan into the isolation of the desert were quickly set aside. Khalav knew how to handle this machine. He prattled excitedly as we drove on. He knew where to find the unusual rock formations rising from the sands. We mounted enormous sand dunes and crossed dry stream beds (Wadi). We bounced and rattled kilometre after kilometre until we came to rest against a large rock out cropping. Before us lay a large expanse of flat desert. Sand snaked its way across the desert floor aided by the light and steady breeze. In minutes the setting sun began its magic. Surely some large unseen brush was at work painting the surrounding rocks and cliffs with every colour found in the rays of sun light. Using an amazing pallet of reds, oranges, yellows, and violets the desert was transformed.

The three of us said not a word. We stood in silence and we watched the mastery and the mystery of this sun splashed spectacle. The breeze became quite cool as the sun sank beyond distant hills. We were glad for the shelter of our rickety vehicle as we wove a new path homeward leaving our own distinct imprint in this place.

Khalav invited Radwan and me into his family home for “tea.” I was ushered into a large sparsely furnished room. The room was colourfully decorated with paint striping on the walls which led to symmetrical designs on the ceiling. Cushions lined the perimeter of the room where I took my place crossing my legs in front of me. I was brought a glass of white substance. I could feel it was icy cold. I sipped it and knew that it was milk of some sort. Khalav indicated that the best way was to down it with a few gulps. I continued sipping as I learned this was sheep’s milk. It had a strong, rich flavour. It was explained that salt is added and it then goes into a machine. Could this be the Bedouin’s version of a vanilla shake? A second glass was kindly poured and gulped faster than the first. We concluded our visit with sweet, hot tea.

We returned to Aqaba late in the evening. As we neared my hotel I knew that I had experienced a wonderful day and that I had been in good and caring hands. To Radwan I said, “Today I feel I have been with a friend.” He smiled. “Philip, I meet many people and I can tell a lot by their faces. I can tell by your face that your are a good man. I too have a new friend.” (Okay, I filled in the broken English!) It truly has been a special day. I will say it.... “I am glad God thought enough of me to have brought Radwan to me and to entrust me to his care.”

I spent a short time in the sun at poolside yesterday before packing and preparing for my return to Israel. I returned to my room to find a message waiting. It was from Radwan. He let me know he was staying in Aqaba and was available to drive me to the border whenever I wanted to go. An hour later and with a large smile he jumped from his taxi offering me a warm greeting. Bags stowed we headed for the Jordanian-Israel border. From the rear seat he produced a package and handed it to me. “You will need this for your long bus ride back to Jerusalem.” It was food - a care package of pastries, rolls and goodies for my return trip. Oh Radwan! You are a friend.

And there was no charge for the taxi ride to the border......