Jordan Adventure - Chapter 1

After catching Bus 444 from the central bus terminal in Jerusalem and enduring a 4 hour bus ride I arrived in the southern Israeli city of Eilat. By taxi I made my way to the border between Israel and the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Since taxis cannot cross borders I walked my way through security, passport control, customs control, exit taxes, entry visas, more security and passport control. It was hot especially so since I had a backpack and one carry-on in tow in 28 degree Celsius heat and 500 metres to negotiate. This is what the traveller gets used to. That..... and lots and lots of questions and searches. Try explaining to someone with little English what a sabbatical to study theology is all about. I have been wisely advised to just say “I am a pilgrim going to pray at religious holy places.” It works!

I determined to do a walk-around of the city of Aqaba (population 90,000 - but I find that figure hard to believe). The shops are open until 11:00 pm every night. Thus there is quite a night life in most Arab towns. I found that the sidewalks and streets both were busy with locals coming and going and pausing in great long conversations, some sounding like animated debates to me.

On my agenda was to discover a way to get to Petra and to Wadi Rumm. Petra is an ancient Nabataean city about two hours plus drive north. Wadi Rumm is.... well it’s not on every map I discovered. But it is the site of the filming of the old movie “Lawrence of Arabia.” Basically it is desert. I found little luck in the travel shops. It appeared that groups of persons travelling to such areas make their plans from far away in their home countries through well known agencies. My hopes in picking up a last minute tour where diminishing.

Then I met Muhammad, dare I say an elderly businessman. Muhammad has a fleet of taxis. It seems no one retires here. Muhammad and his more elderly brother and his even older brother-in-law are enjoying a fine evening smoking and sitting in chairs on the sidewalk in front of Muhammad’s taxi office. This is not at all unusual. The pace is much less hurried here regardless of what the impatient car horns have to say.

I seaw that Muhammad has signs indicating trips to Petra, Amman (the capital), and Wadi Rumm among other destinations posted in his windows. I passed by, paused, then turned to speak with Muhammad. Once it seemed we might be able to do business Muhammad invited me to sit in the one remaining empty chair, introduced himself to me, and ordered tea to be brought to me. That’s when I learn the identities of his companions. All three of them were neatly groomed as are all Arab men which explains why there are so many barber shops everywhere. They were wearing the traditional floor length robe. Muhammad himself has 26 brothers and sisters. Most of them living in Aqaba. His father had four wives which helps to explain the fruitful nature of the family. He is very proud of his large family lineage. He himself enjoys one wife, three sons and one daughter.

The conversation was polite to be sure. Business is business. Then Muhammad invited me into his office where he was more than proud to show me every photo taken with he and the late King Hussein, and one taken of he with King Abdullah, father and son Kings of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Muhammad described them as upstanding, kind, and generous men. He counted himself among their friends and business associates.
Muhammad had one of his workers call a driver and have him commit to me for a trip to Petra. In short order a taxi, a Landrover, driven by a distinguished gentleman pulled to the curb. Another chair was brought and we succeeded in blocking the entire sidewalk. Pedestrians stepped into the street to pass. I was introduced to Radwan, the driver. Yes, he was available and would be pleased to escort me to Petra the next day. We negotiated a price, finished tea, and Radwan drove me to my hotel in order to secure the meeting point for the morrow’s adventure. On the way to the hotel Radwan convinced me that we should leave an hour earlier at 7:00 am and include a stop at Wadi Rumm at the end of the day. “The sunset” he said, “should be experienced by all.”

Jordan Adventure - Chapter 2

Seven o’clock sharp Radwan was in front of my hotel as I stepped to the curb and we were off. We chatted. Despite his limited English and that of the other men of the prior evening, it is amazing how communication just happens. We talked politics, religion, and family matters. We wondered about the role of the USA in the middle east and “what about Iraq and Iran?” Jordan shares a border with Iraq and the highway we were travelling led to Bagdad.

Shortly after 9: am we arrived in the town of Petra which thrives because of a burgeoning tourist destination, the ancient city of Petra made famous by Indian Jones film footage. Petra is absolutely breathtaking. It was a lost city until 1812. The Nabataeans were clever and practical people who flourished 2200 years ago. Most impressive is the 1200 metres long, deep and narrow gorge of stunning natural beauty. It leads the visitor to the entrance of Petra called the “Siq.” hemmed in by 80 metre cliffs. One gets to see bizarre-looking geological features and formations and colourful rocks. Carved into the rock faces are tombs and places of worship and sacrifice, and the pride and joy of Petra “The Treasury,” perhaps a tomb or a temple. Petra is one truly amazing place. It stretches on for some three or four kilometres.

A place I thought might be interesting to see was the “High Place of Sacrifice.” It is accessible after a hard mountain climb. I thought a donkey would do the trick so I hired one. Up we started, up, up, up. Some of the pathway was of steps carved into the bedrock of the mountain. No guard rails or warning signs. Just up. Several times I simply closed my eyes. At one point the donkey appeared to run out of pathway and there was nothing but a shear drop before us both. The donkey stepped tight to the rock face, pressed its nose tight to the rock, pivoted its four feet 180 degrees and continued up. I am glad to be a man of prayer. The High Place of Sacrifice was well worth the climb. It is well preserved and provided a spectacular view of Petra down below.

I was told it is much too dangerous to ride the donkey down.... so I made my own way back to the “Siq” far below. There a man on horseback wanted me to hire his horse to take me to the entrance and thus end my visit the “right” way. I thanked him with what I thought was a firm “No.” Yet, he persisted. A distraction that proved unhelpful as I became wedged between two horses that towered above me. His and one that approached from behind. The latter decided to express its displeasure. Did you know horses can kick to the side? This one caught me on the left shin with its hind right hoof. That “put a hurtin’ on me.” I hobbled my way to the entrance where I met my driver Radwan and we were off for Wadi Rumm.

I asked my driver, Radwan what we would do in Wadi Rumm. He told me “he had a friend.” How many times have I heard that in the past three months?! He described his friend as a “small man.” I wondered what that meant. As we neared Wadi Rumm he explained that it was best left to the Bedouin people to do the escorting in the desert. They know the desert. They have lived in the desert for thousands of years. They are traditionally a nomadic people, shepherds, and experienced with guiding and camels. Some say they are thieves and are not to be trusted. Radwan says they are a lovely people... just very poor.

As we neared Wadi Rumm we were met by a white Toyota pickup which pulled to the side of the road. While the term “small” did apply to his stature it also applied to his age. I asked Radwan just how old was his friend. Through is laugh his said “Maybe fifteen.” Fifteen... I didn’t think so. I would have bet the boy still had puberty well off in his future. The “small man” greeted his older friend enthusiastically by bounding out of his Toyota and over to our Landrover offering the traditional three kisses. I was introduced to this curious “small man,” Khalav.

Jordan Adventure - Chapter 3

Back into our respective vehicles we left the paved road and made our way across the shifting sands of the desert’s edge. A path was somewhat discernible in the sand, even so, Khalav took the lead to manoeuver wherever he wished to go. We drove and drove deeper into the desert until in the distance a village.... no, a hamlet appeared. A Bedouin encampment. Khalav wove his and our way through houses and tents, coming to rest on the east side of his family home in the shade.

I saw three persons as we approached. Two men and a smaller boy. As I clamoured out of the Landrover family members poured from inside the large Bedouin tent attached to the south end of the cement block house. I lost count at twenty. (I later learned that Khalav was one of eleven brothers and sisters.) I met every man and male child present as we prepared to embark in yet another Toyota, this one being more fit for fun in the desert, albeit, older and more modified than the first. I use the term “modified” advisedly as my seat rocked back with each acceleration.

Any fears I had about this young boy taking me and my driver Radwan into the isolation of the desert were quickly set aside. Khalav knew how to handle this machine. He prattled excitedly as we drove on. He knew where to find the unusual rock formations rising from the sands. We mounted enormous sand dunes and crossed dry stream beds (Wadi). We bounced and rattled kilometre after kilometre until we came to rest against a large rock out cropping. Before us lay a large expanse of flat desert. Sand snaked its way across the desert floor aided by the light and steady breeze. In minutes the setting sun began its magic. Surely some large unseen brush was at work painting the surrounding rocks and cliffs with every colour found in the rays of sun light. Using an amazing pallet of reds, oranges, yellows, and violets the desert was transformed.

The three of us said not a word. We stood in silence and we watched the mastery and the mystery of this sun splashed spectacle. The breeze became quite cool as the sun sank beyond distant hills. We were glad for the shelter of our rickety vehicle as we wove a new path homeward leaving our own distinct imprint in this place.

Khalav invited Radwan and me into his family home for “tea.” I was ushered into a large sparsely furnished room. The room was colourfully decorated with paint striping on the walls which led to symmetrical designs on the ceiling. Cushions lined the perimeter of the room where I took my place crossing my legs in front of me. I was brought a glass of white substance. I could feel it was icy cold. I sipped it and knew that it was milk of some sort. Khalav indicated that the best way was to down it with a few gulps. I continued sipping as I learned this was sheep’s milk. It had a strong, rich flavour. It was explained that salt is added and it then goes into a machine. Could this be the Bedouin’s version of a vanilla shake? A second glass was kindly poured and gulped faster than the first. We concluded our visit with sweet, hot tea.

We returned to Aqaba late in the evening. As we neared my hotel I knew that I had experienced a wonderful day and that I had been in good and caring hands. To Radwan I said, “Today I feel I have been with a friend.” He smiled. “Philip, I meet many people and I can tell a lot by their faces. I can tell by your face that your are a good man. I too have a new friend.” (Okay, I filled in the broken English!) It truly has been a special day. I will say it.... “I am glad God thought enough of me to have brought Radwan to me and to entrust me to his care.”

I spent a short time in the sun at poolside yesterday before packing and preparing for my return to Israel. I returned to my room to find a message waiting. It was from Radwan. He let me know he was staying in Aqaba and was available to drive me to the border whenever I wanted to go. An hour later and with a large smile he jumped from his taxi offering me a warm greeting. Bags stowed we headed for the Jordanian-Israel border. From the rear seat he produced a package and handed it to me. “You will need this for your long bus ride back to Jerusalem.” It was food - a care package of pastries, rolls and goodies for my return trip. Oh Radwan! You are a friend.

And there was no charge for the taxi ride to the border......

Memorable moments during "Break Week" - Sunset over the Gulf of Aqaba, Jordan. (March 28) 

Memorable sights during "Break Week" - Exploring the ancient Nabatean city of Petra in Jordan. (March 27) "Indiana Jones" was filmed here.  

Two new friends "Radwan" and "Khalav" helped me explore Petra and Wadi Rumm in the Kingdom of Jordan. 

Memorable sights during "Break Week" - Wadi Rumm in Jordan. (March 27) 

Memorable moments during "Break Week" - Sunset at Wadi Rumm, Jordan. (March 27) 

Memorable Sights while on "Break Week" - Sunset at Wadi Rumm a desert area in the Kingdom of Jordan. (March 27) The movie "Lawrence of Arabia" was filmed here. 

Memorable sights while on "Break Week" - Watching the sunset in the desert of Wadi Rumm in the Kingdom of Jordan. (March 27) 

Friday March 24th we travelled to the Ela Valley where on many occassions the Philistines and the Israelites met in battle. This is the valley where the young David volunteered to go out to the battlefield and meet Goliath, the pride of the Philistine army. It was here that David ended Goliath's military career with one carefully selected smooth stone. 

I was placed in a crypt but escaped before my companions could seal me inside. 

We visited the "Bell Caves" near Bet Shem'esh. These are caves which were quarried beginning in fifteen century BC.  

We finished our day-long excursion on Friday March 24 with a two hour hike through Sataf National Park. The weather was sunny and warm at 25 degrees celcius. 

Fig trees.... 

A "watch tower" (as in biblical times) to watch over and protect the olive grove and yineyard. Sataf National Park. 

We paused in the shade of mediterranean oaks and this very old olive tree. 

We finished the hike passing an ancient spring-fed cistern into which children and teenagers had turned into a favourite swimming hole. A good idea on a hot day like today. 

Jesus In His Cultural Milieu - Part IV

With Fr. Dr. Michael McGarry - March 25, 2006

The Sabbath Commandment - A gift of Freedom

The Old Testament books of the Exodus and Deuteronomy both prescribe a complete rest (no work), for all humans and animals witin reach. The reasons given are different: in Exodus 20 the reason is the imitation of God wh consecrated or set apart the seventh day. In Deuteronomy 5, this is more of a day of rest. Having a day of rest is the mark of a free person, one delivered from bondage.

The Sabbath is primarily a positive commandment, liberating human beings from the hard toil of the six workdays – not a burden!

The Sabbath begins by prayer and reading of the Torah, probably in a “synagogue.” Every Sabbath should have as good and festive a meal as possible - fasting is forbidden on Sabbath. It is a time fro freedom and joy, for leisurely talk, and being together with one’s family.

The Sabbath is a GIFT more than an obligation, agift from God the Liberator to his people, made for enjoyment and blessing. Having an obligatory rest means that one is to refrain from work, work is forbidden on the Sabbath. Carry nothing and conduct no business, do not even think about business transactions. Preparation of food takes place prior to the start of the Sabbath. Here, Jesus contravened understood Sabbath laws by harvesting grain and eating it on the Sabbath. Healing on the Sabbath was considered work.

Anyone is free to act, in fact is obligated to act) in a responsible way to save a life or to assist in cases of serous illness.

Palestinian Liberation Theology - Part IV

With Rev. Dr. Naim Ateek - March 23, 2006

The Christian Palestinian Community

In Israel, in 2005 the total population was about 6.9 million. This figure includes East Jerusalem and the Israeli settlements found in the West Bank. Of this figure, 5.26 million are Jews (about 76% of the population); 1.35 million are "Arabs" (about 20% of the population); .29 million are "others" such as foreign labourers, foreign clergy, those living in religious communities and comprise about 4% of the population. .12 million (120,000) are Christians.

In the areas considered to be "Palestine," those areas that are occupied by Israel since 1967, there are 1.5 million "Arabs" in Gaza; 3 million in the West Bank who are "Arab," with some 50,000 being Christian.

Five Major Historical Factors Affecting the Life of the Christian Community

1. Theological Controversies of the Early Church

Christians were of different ethnic backgrounds but were one entity until the 4th, 5th and 6th centuries when the Church Councils were held and resulted in splits over theological doctrine. These successive splits caused each group of Christians to see each other as heretical enemies. This weakened the Christian cause and witness.

2. Islam’s Arrival in the 7th Century

Muhammad’s teachings about and against Christianity were ill informed by various Christian Arab tribes with their varying and usually opposing accounts of Christianity arising from the disagreements of the Church Councils of earlier centuries. This weakened the Christian cause and witness.

In the 7th century Christian communities began to convert to Islam to avoid taxes that were imposed by Muslim rule and to make life easier socially. This weakened the Christian cause and witness.

3. The Christian Crusades

These often violent and deadly campaigns of the 11th and 12th centuries pitted western Christians under Rome not only against the followers of Judaism and Islam but also against the eastern Christians under Constantinople. Muslims and Eastern Christians were seen as enemies which only furthered the split between eastern and western Christians. The Orthodox churches were divided with some followers converting to Roman authority and some remaining devout to Orthodoxy. This divided and weakened the Christian cause and witness.

4. Protestant Missionary Movement & Colonialism

In the late 19th century the Protestant missionary movement came with a view to convert people of every faith including those they believed to be of the wrong Christian faith to their own traditions. This coupled with the rise of empire building on the part of Western and European nations left a negative legacy of the Christianized world. This weakened the Christian cause and witness.

5. The Establishment of the State of Israel (Zionism)

The effect of splitting the country of Palestine has resulted in the emigration of many Palestinian Christians to other countries, some to western countries, some to other Arab countries.


Concerns of the Christian Community Today

1. Emigration of Christians

The state of Israel always says that Christians are leaving Israel because of the Muslims. While there are some problems between Christians and Muslims, the main reason for emigration is the political instability of Israel.

In 1948 when Israel took 78% of Palestine many Christians left as many had lost their home and their land. The fear is that soon there will be no Christians left in Gaza and in the northern West Bank areas of Nablus and Jenin.

2. The Growing Fanaticism - Political and Religious

Islamic and Jewish extremism - extremism which always tends to negate "the other" is a growing threat. Christians feel the repercussions of extremism from both the Muslim and the Jewish sides. This leaves very little room for peaceful living.

3. No Peace

With no solution to the conflict in the Holy Land people leave having given up hope.

4. Democracy

Most Christians wish to live in a democracy based on peace and community. Most people who live in the middle east have grown up in a culture of violence. How do you influence large scale cultural change from violence to peace? Christians do not wish to live in an Islamic state nor a Jewish state, so they emigrate. The State of Israel has no constitution therefore the rights of the marginalized and of the minorities are unprotected. In the absence of justice people choose to emigrate.

One Position on the Resolution of the Conflict

Move toward a Two State Solution. Even though following 1948, the United Nations awarded 55% of the land to Israel, it has occupied 78%. It now proposes and is acting to confiscate an additional 12%. It is possible to halt the current expansionism and establish two states with Israel having 78% and Palestine having 22%.

One organization (Sabeel) further proposes that there be created two sovereign states that are interdependent, perhaps under a confederation so as not to live as enemies, but rather exist in a positive dynamic.

The city of Jerusalem which is claimed by Israel as the eternal capital of the Jewish people and is claimed by Islam as belonging to Muslims must be politically shared. East Jerusalem become the capital of Palestine, West Jerusalem become the capital of Israel, and the Walled Old City of Jerusalem which contains most of the Holy Sites become a separate international entity by special United Nations charter, thereby lifting it above the politics and developed as a place of pilgrimage for all.

Ein Kerem

This morning we visited the picturesque village of Ein Kerem which is nestled in a green valley on the outskirts of greater northwest Jerusalem.

The first two stops of today's outing are significant for all Christians. The first was to the Visitation Church situated half way up the western slope of the valley. The Church of the Visitation is at the location of Mary and Elizabeth's visit. In the Gospel of Luke we read that a pregnant Mary went to visit her older cousin Elizabeth who was also with child. When Mary greeted Elizabeth the unborn child inside Elizabeth leaped in response to the greeting. The familiar scripture passage we call the "Magnificat" or "Mary's Song" by tradition was uttered by Mary during this visit.

In the church courtyard stands a wonderfully modern sculpture of expectant Mary greeting a very pregnant Elizabeth.

Inside the grotto below the church santuary is a rock behind which legend tells us that Elizabeth hid with her infant son John (the Baptist) to escape the Roman soldiers carrying out the orders of Herod who decreed that all male babies under the age of two should be killed.

The church sanctuary has the most feminine character I have ever seen, especially for a Catholic Church. Mary is most definitely the prominent figure thoughout.




Our next stop took us to St. John's Church, also in Ein Kerem, which as the name suggests is the church that marks the location of the birth of John the Baptist, the son son of Elizabeth and Zechariah.



A marble relief on the floor beneath the altar marks the place of John's birth in the home of his parents, Elizabeth and Zechariah.




Also located in the village of Ein Kerem is a water source called "Mary's Spring" which is said to have begun to flow at the moment Mary greet Elizabeth and the baby lept inside Elizabeth. Here, my friend Hugh finds the water refreshingly cool.






After a brief stop for capacinno we continued to the Hadassah Medical Centre, a major hospital for Jerusalem and the surrounding area providing world class medical care to all who pass through the doors. Located in the Hadassah Hospital are the world famous "Chagall Windows," twelve in all created by Marc Chagall a French artist for the hospital's synagogue.

Palestinian Liberation Theology - Part III

with the Rev. Dr. Naim Ateek - March 21, 2006

Theological Features of Palestinian Liberation Theology

Today if we intend to be faithful to God we must articulate several different areas of theology:

1. The political situation in Israel and the occupied territories must be addressed:

The luxury does not exist to separate daily life from politics, nor to separate the church from the political affairs of the day. We must engage the powers that be, address the powers, and articulate where we stand in our living as people of faith.

2. The Bible and its textual problems must be addressed:

The Bible has been one of the greatest instruments used and abused to oppress people and to negate the rights of people. We must deal with difficult scriptural texts, especially biblical texts that seem to affirm the exclusion of "other" people from justice and ethical treatment.

It is helpful for Christian people to look at Jesus Christ himself and his life. This approach connects best with the local Palestinian people. The divinity of Jesus Christ is easily accentuated here. The humanity of Jesus must also be lifted up. We must read that Jesus was born under occupation, lived all his life under occupation, and was killed by the occupying forces. This does not deny His divinity, but affirms his humanity. This message resonates with the occupied people who live here. From this aspect, reading the Gospels begins to make more sense. To "love your enemy" takes on deep meaning.

Christianity flows naturally from the prophetic tradition found in the Old Testament. We must read the gospels with a view to discovering the prophetic message - the message that challenges injustice and evil ways. Wherever we live we can read and ask ourselves "How can I learn from Jesus who lived under occupation?" "How can I be faithful to God in this situation?"

Luke 18 and the verses which follow speak of the importance of prayer and persistence. The parable is also a strong teaching on justice - "a judge who neither feared God, nor respected people" - "then there was a widow.... asking for justice." At the end the question is asked "When the son of man comes will he find faith on earth?" I believe it means.... ‘there is so much injustice in this world are there people here who will stand up against injustice?" Jesus is asking "Do you have faith to work for prophetic justice?"

Certainly we read Old Testament scriptures that exclude other people. But there is also a message of inclusivity to be found in the Torah. In the book of Leviticus 25:23 we read that the land belongs to God - that we are ALL aliens in this land.

This thought continues in the prophetic writings of Ezekiel 47:21 which talks about the return of God’s people from exile. The prophet writes about a new way of life in the land - the land is for everyone including the alien. "Other" people shall be just like you and shall share in it. By developing the theology of the land and who has rights to the land you can make the translation into "peace."

A biblical understanding must be articulated that affirms God is not the God of only one people, that God is concerned about all people (even the worst enemies), that God has "other" children in whom God is interested, that God’s care and God purview cannot be underestimated, and that God is not limited in God’s care about this land, but all lands. The basis for this theology is found in the Old Testament to be certain and it continues into the New Testament. In his teaching about God’s reign, Jesus was not preoccupied with the land issue, but Jesus was preoccupied with the Kingdom of God which can be seen as the counterpart when speaking about the Land. The Kingdom with which Jesus deals is a land where God reigns everywhere and for everyone.

3. Ecumenical Issues: the dynamics within the diverse Christian community which lives in this land must be addressed. Together the Christian community must ask and explore the challenges, its ministry, and the issues that are common to all and those that are unique to each.

4. Interfaith Relations: bridges of conversation and trust must be built between Christian - Jewish - Muslim traditions.

5. Secularism: the relatively recent transformation of secular Zionism into am increasingly fundamental religious Zionism throughout the struggle for a Jewish homeland from the late 1960's onward must be opened for critique and examination.

Aboud Losing Land

Today (Sunday) I travelled to a quiet village located in the "west bank" between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and west of Ramallah. The village is composed of two families. One family with a branch of five streams forms the Catholic Church and the other family forms the Orthodox Church. I worshipped at the Catholic Church which was full to standing room only,and then ajourned to meet everyone after worship in the parish hall.




Last October the military arrived in the village and called a meeting to tell the local families that the military was seizing 1,250 acres of land to build a security fence to protect the nearby Israeli settlement from them. The route of the fence which is under construction snakes its way through the surrounding valleys and hills.



This fence is separating the farmers from their olive trees and their grazing pastures. The locals have been told that there will be a security gate for their use. The locals are not reassured because they know the same "trick" was applied in a nearby village and after two years and very few permissions granted to pass through the gate, it was permantently locked.



The priest and a man from the congregation explained that 25% of Israel's underground water aquafers are located around the village of Aboud and they are certain the "land grab" will also include the water sources they too depend upon. They toured us around the village lands so we could see for ourselves. Approximately 5,000 olive trees have been cut down by soldiers and settlers for "security purposes."



Unemployment is already very high, running close to 70%, with little future for young people especially. They need to hold tight to their land if they are to survive.



I learned that they need people from other countries to make it known what is happening inside Israel. They want us to know how their lives are being rapidly changed for the worse due to circumstances beyond their control. Our Christian sisters and brothers here feel forgotten by the world.

Kim, Home Again

After a wonderful two weeks, Kim has arrived safe and sound, but tired, in Canada!

Colonization of Palestine Precludes Peace

By Jimmy Carter

For more than a quarter century, Israeli policy has been in conflict with that of the United States and the international community. Israel's occupation of Palestine has obstructed a comprehensive peace agreement in the Holy Land, regardless of whether Palestinians had no formalized government, one headed by Yasser Arafat or Mahmoud Abbas, or with Abbas as president and Hamas controlling the parliament and cabinet.

The unwavering U.S. position since Dwight Eisenhower's administration has been that Israel's borders coincide with those established in 1949, and since 1967, the universally adopted UN Resolution 242 has mandated Israel's withdrawal from the occupied territories. This policy was reconfirmed even by Israel in 1978 and 1993, and emphasized by all American presidents, including George W. Bush. As part of the Quartet, including Russia, the UN and the European Union, he has endorsed a "road map" for peace. But Israel has officially rejected its basic premises with patently unacceptable caveats and prerequisites.

With Israel's approval, The Carter Center has monitored all three Palestinian elections. Supervised by a blue-ribbon commission of college presidents and distinguished jurists, they have all been honest, fair and peaceful, with the results accepted by winners and losers.

Hamas will control the cabinet and prime minister's office, but Mahmoud Abbas retains all authority and power exercised by Yasser Arafat. He still heads the PLO, the only Palestinian entity recognized by Israel, and could deal with Israeli leaders under this umbrella, independent of Hamas control. He has unequivocally endorsed the Quartet's road map. Post-election polls show that 80 percent of Palestinians still want a peace agreement with Israel and nearly 70 percent support Abbas as president.

Israel has announced a policy of isolating and destabilizing the new government (perhaps joined by the United States). The elected officials will be denied travel permits and workers from isolated Gaza barred from entering Israel, and every effort is being made to block funds to Palestinians. The Quartet's special envoy, James Wolfensohn, has proposed that donors assist the Palestinian people without violating anti-terrorism laws that prohibit funds from being sent directly to Hamas.

In the short run, the best approach is to follow Wolfensohn's advice, give the dust a chance to settle in Palestine and await the outcome of Israel's election later this month. Hamas wishes now to consolidate its political gains, maintain domestic order and stability, and refrain from any contacts with Israel. It will be a tragedy - especially for the Palestinians - if they promote or condone terrorism.

The preeminent obstacle to peace is Israel's colonization of Palestine. There were just a few hundred settlers in the West Bank and Gaza when I became president, but the Likud government expanded settlement activity after I left office. President Ronald Reagan condemned this policy, and reaffirmed that Resolution 242 remained "the foundation stone of America's Middle East peace effort." President George H.W. Bush even threatened to reduce American aid to Israel.

Although President Bill Clinton made strong efforts to promote peace, a massive increase of settlers occurred during his administration, to 225,000, mostly while Ehud Barak was prime minister. Their best official offer to the Palestinians was to withdraw 20 percent of them, leaving 180,000 in 209 settlements, covering about 5 percent of the occupied land.

The 5 percent figure is grossly misleading, with surrounding areas taken or earmarked for expansion, roadways joining settlements with each other and to Jerusalem, and wide arterial swaths providing water, sewage, electricity and communications. This intricate honeycomb divides the entire West Bank into multiple fragments, often uninhabitable or even unreachable. Recently, Israeli leaders have decided on unilateral actions without involving either the United States or the Palestinians, with withdrawal from Gaza as the first step. As presently circumscribed and isolated, without access to the air, sea or the West Bank, Gaza is a nonviable economic and political entity.

The future of the West Bank is equally dismal. Especially troublesome is Israel's construction of huge concrete dividing walls in populated areas and high fences in rural areas - located entirely on Palestinian territory and often with deep intrusions to encompass more land and settlements. The wall is designed to surround a truncated Palestine completely, and a network of exclusive highways will cut across what is left of Palestine to connect Israel with the Jordan River Valley.

This will never be acceptable either to Palestinians or to the international community, and will inevitably precipitate increased tension and violence within Palestine, and stronger resentment and animosity from the Arab world against America, which will be held accountable for the plight of the Palestinians.

Acting Prime Minister Ehud Olmert and others pointed out years ago that Israel's permanent occupation will be increasingly difficult as the relative number of Jewish citizens decreases demographically both within Israel and in Palestine. This is obvious to most Israelis, who also view this dominant role as a distortion of their ancient moral and religious values. Over the years, opinion polls have consistently shown that about 60 percent of Israelis favor withdrawing from the West Bank in exchange for permanent peace. Similarly, an overwhelming number of both Israelis and Palestinians want a durable two-state solution.

Casualties have increased during the past few years as the occupying forces imposed tighter controls. From September 2000 until March 2006, 3,982 Palestinians and 1,084 Israelis were killed in the conflict, and this includes many children: 708 Palestinians and 123 Israelis.

There is little doubt that accommodation with the Palestinians can bring full Arab recognition of Israel and its right to live in peace. Any rejectionist policies of Hamas or any terrorist group will be overcome by an overall Arab commitment to restrain further violence and to promote the well-being of the Palestinian people.

Down through the years, I have seen despair and frustration evolve into optimism and progress and, even now, we need not give up hope for permanent peace for Israelis and freedom and justice for Palestinians if three basic premises are honored:

1. Israel's right to exist - and to live in peace - must be recognized and accepted by Palestinians and all other neighbors;

2. The killing of innocent people by suicide bombs or other acts of violence cannot be condoned; and

3. Palestinians must live in peace and dignity, and permanent Israeli settlements on their land are a major obstacle to this goal.

Former U.S. president Jimmy Carter led The Carter Center/National Democratic Institute observation of the Palestinian elections in January.

(Copyright by Project Syndicate and The Council on Foreign Relations, 2006)

IDF confirms paratrooper killed by friendly fire during Jenin raid

By Amos Harel and David Ratner, Haaretz Correspondents

The Israel Defense Forces Spokesperson on Friday confirmed that friendly fire killed a paratrooper during an operation to arrest wanted men in the West Bank city of Jenin Thursday.

The circumstances surrounding the death of First Lieutenant Ido Shapira, 20, of Haifa, were ascertained after GOC Central Commander Major General Yair Naveh oversaw a military investigation of the incident.

Paratrooper Brigade Commander Colonel Hagai Mordechai visited Shapira's parents Friday morning and delivered them the investigation results.
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Shapira was killed when his paratroop unit entered Jenin before dawn to arrest members of the local Islamic Jihad network. At about 5:30 A.M., after the soldiers had surrounded the house where their target, Mohammed Kandil, was believed to be staying, they spotted three men, all armed, inside the house, and opened fire.

Shapira was mortally wounded by a bullet that struck his upper body above his flak jacket and died shortly thereafter.

Initially, the IDF assumed that Shapira was hit by return fire from the Palestinian gunmen. However, during the army's initial investigation on Thursday, one soldier admitted that he mistakenly fired in Shapira's direction.

Since the soldiers and the Palestinians were using different caliber rifles, ballistics tests determined definitively that Shapira was killed by one of his comrades.

The operation resulted in five arrests: the three gunmen inside the house, a fourth Palestinian who was caught when he fled the house before the shooting started, and a fifth, someone who has been on Israel's wanted list for the last three years, who was found purely by chance when the soldiers happened to enter a neighboring house.

Some of the arrested men belong to Islamic Jihad, while others are Fatah members who had been working with the Islamic Jihad network in the northern West Bank. According to the Shin Bet security service, the four men found in the target house were involved in four suicide bombings inside the Green Line that killed 21 Israelis last year - one in Tel Aviv, one in Hadera and two in Netanya - and are thought to have been planning another attack when they were captured.

Shapira was buried in the Haifa military cemetery on Thursday. He is survived by his parents and two sisters.

People renewing their baptismal vows at the site of Jesus' baptism in the Jordan River at Jardenit, Israel. 

Islam - Part IV - Palestinian Culture and Institutions

With Dr. Laila Nazzal - March 17, 2006

Dr. Laila Nazzal earned her doctorate in the sociology from the University of Pennsylvania. She lectures on Palestinian Muslim Family and social changes in Islam.

Dr. Nazzal spoke with us about the place of the family in Palestinian society. The extended family is the most important institution in Palestinian society. The typical family is multi-generational with grandfather and grandmother, mother and father, married sons and their families, single sons and single daughters all forming a household. This is why Palestinian houses are so large - to accommodate the many inhabitants of the household/family. Houses used to be built around an open compound. Due to the lack of land today the traditional house architecture has changed and now the structure moves upward, including several stories. When a son marries a new floor is added to the house for him, his new wife and their future children. There are no pension plans, no social security, and each member contributes to the family. Elders are well respected and taken care of within the family home.

The extended families are organized around a clan called the "Hammula" and could number in the 100's or 1,000's. Three to five clans constitute a village. The west bank has 450 villages following this structure. Each clan has a chief or head called the "Muhktar." The Mukhtars together form the village council. For example the town of Nablus is constituted of 5 clans.

Many Palestinians emigrate for employment reasons and for opportunities no longer available in the "occupied territories of the west bank. These families tend to be very thrifty with money. They save well and bring their savings back to Palestine upon retirement and build elaborate homes, and marry off their children because they do not want them marrying from within the society of the host country. It is true that more Muslim Palestinians return to their former villages than do Christian Palestinians.

The Arab family is patriarchal. The man is clearly the head of the household. Interestingly though, a lot of major decisions concerning business alliances and marriages are undertaken by the women. This practice is rarely seen outside the family in order to protect the "Summa" (reputation) of the family, as reputation rests chiefly with the man and his sons and the women of the household enjoy the "Summa" through the males of their family.

In traditional Islamic architecture, the family house has two entrances. One entrance leads directly to the living quarters and is always used by male guests and for business transactions. The other entrance of the house leads to the hearth or "heart" of the house the domain of the girls and women of the family and this entrance is used by family and very close friends.

A Palestinian individual is named in such a way as to reflect the family structure, respecting the clan and tribe. A woman will carry a name such as "Laila Abed Ahed Ahmah Saleh Al-Koran Nazzal." Laila - being the woman’s first name, Abed - her father’s name, Ahed - her grandfather’s name, Ahmad - her greatgrandfather’s name, Saleh - her Clan name, Al-Koran - her tribal name, and Nazzal - her husband’s clan name.

Arab society is based on the clan. Western society is based on the individual. The Arab Palestinian family averages seven children is 7. Western families average less than two children.
67% of Arabs where living "on the land" previous to 1967. Today less than 35% are on the land, a change reflected in the urbanization of the Palestinian family, each with income no longer derived from agricultural or animal husbandry. There is a strong allegiance to one’s family, clan, and tribe, and only then to nation. Everyone is concerned about everyone’s actions and behaviours. This practice is a form of social surveillance and the family immediately know when their honour is threatened by one of their family members. When a member of the family is sick it is expected that the extended family and the clan visits the bedside. The bed is pushed aside and people gather for conversation and entertainment.

Verbal reciprocity and material reciprocity applies. "Hello. How are you?" begs a true response. Any occasion is a special opportunity to gather. One always takes a gift when visiting. One always visits at the time of engagement, marriage, when one is embarking on a trip and when one returns. Visitation is for every occasion. Rest and recreation is being with the family, not going to the movies or bowling. The whole family and clan address issues of material need. Money is pooled in order to meet the need where it exists.

Marriages are arranged even to today in Palestinian society. Because society is segregated and males and females do not mix it is necessary that the family introduces a man and a woman as future marriage partners. In reality marriage is not between a couple. It is a family marriage. Most marriages were conducted between first cousins and is called "Ibn ‘Amm." Today these marriages constitute 20% of marriages. Yes, some couples do fall in love and marry in the western fashion. In preparation for marriage a couple undertakes to write a "Katb al-Kitab" or marriage contract. The Mahr, a marriage gift is part of the marriage contract and is given by the prospective groom’s family to the bride’s family. For Palestinians this is about $8,000US which goes directly to the women of the bride’s family and is used to purchase gold jewellery and provides the security of wealth to the women. The marriage contract stipulates alimony in the event of divorce, today being equivalent to $8,000 to $15,000 as a lump sum.

The concept of "Sumod" or perseverance and steadfastness is taught to women from a very young age instilling in them a sense of patience, for taking instructions, listening to men and brothers, as the family is keenly interested and has an investment in keeping the family, the family lands, and the family wealth intact.

Jewish Peace Group's Response to Jericho Raid

Gush Shalom Press release, March 14, 2006

At this moment in Jericho, the main elections gimmick of the Kadima Party and its leader Ehud Olmert is taking place with hundreds of Israeli soldiers and Palestinian prisoners drafted to serve as extras. This gimmick, designed to draw extreme right votes in the March 28 elections, shows Kadima as an adventurist and irresponsible party in whose hands it is dangerous to entrust the helm of state” says Gush Shalom (The Israeli Peace Bloc).

In cooperation with the governments of the US and Britain, whose removal of their observers from the Jericho Prison proves them utterly incapable of any mediation role between Israelis and Palestinians, PM Olmert and Defence Minister Mofaz are carrying out a provocation which will only exacerbate the conflict and hatred. Theirs will be the full responsibility for bloodshed of Israelis and Palestinians, in the course of the Jericho provocation itself and in the cycle of retaliation upon retaliation which may follow.

It should be noted that the people which the army was sent to Jericho to capture or kill are marked out because, when taking revenge for the targeted killing of their own leader, they did not kill innocent civilians. They selected Rehav’am Ze’evi, a general turned politician who was the foremost of Israeli racists and who built a political career upon crude hate propaganda. A targeted killing…”

Couple Time!

After touring Jerusalem and Bethlehem, the Holy Sites, and a very full agenda throughout an extensive portion of the Galilee region in northern Israel we took three days to unwind together and just be a couple ..... by ourselves!









Kim liked the lounge chairs...

...and the view!

Phil liked the mud...

... and the Dead Sea!














We both loved the pool!











If anyone is looking for a vacation destination.... you might try Ein Boqeq which is situated along the south western shore of the Dead Sea. It was hot and sunny. Just the way we like it!

While touring Jerusalem Kim met a very friendly donkey. She was offered a ride but prefered her own "shanks pony."